Archive for May, 2009

So a few years ago, I used to smoke cigarettes regularly, say 3-5 a day and if I went out on the scene – I’d have a countless number there along with watermelon shooters and Bud Lights galore.  That was before my esthetics days - and that lasted about a year…But just recently, nearly a month now,  in light of the recession and other stressful matters at hand, I’ve found myself lighting up again!  It’s really quite frustrating – especially since I’m an esthetician and I preach beauty from the inside out – the two just don’t go hand in hand. 

After telling myself and my fiance that I’m going to quit time and again - I’m really telling myself again (and all of you) finally that I’m Going to Quit.  Now when I set my heart and mind to something, I do it.  I acheive it.  It’s mine.  Smoking is so unbecoming to me and the physical ramifications are just *so* not worth it.  I’m writing this, of course, after I just had a cigarette – my last one, in fact – but believe me when I write that as of this moment, I am not going to be a slave to those cancer sticks anymore.  I just have to say No.

Everyone knows smoking is bad for you.  We all know that, right?  Well, here’s more reason to confirm that universal truth.  It’s one of the many ways to accelerate aging, that’s for sure.  Not only can smoking cause cancer, it’s also linked to premature aging and – you guessed it – wrinkles.  What nicotine does upon entering your system is weaken your blood vessels, causing decreased circulation by compromising blood supply to your tissues.

Furthermore, should you make the poor choice of continuing to smoke day after day, year after year, eventually, your tissues will have been deprived of essential oxygen to the point of no return, turning your skin yellowish or gray in color, and leaving you with a dull complexion.  I’d post a pic, but it’s a truly terrifying inconvenient truth - google it. 

And did you know that smokers need more Vitamin C than non-smokers?  Among many other important functions, Vitamin C is required for collagen formation, not only in the skin, but also in cartilage and the discs in the spine.  It’s easily depleted in smokers, which is why smokers need more of it since they will have more free radicals forming in their bodies due to their lifestyle choice.  (Free radicals lead to premature aging and increases skin sensitivity, irritation, age spots, and dryness – you don’t want them, that’s why you love products that contain antioxidants which combat them).  

It’s very difficult for your skin to adjust and repair itself when there’s so much incoming damage.  This damage, once done, is pretty much done – it’s much too expensive and had to reverse or diminish the harsh effects of smoking.  So I challenge you to quit if you are a smoker and desire beautiful skin.  If you need some support, check in with me as I armor up and defy the smokes.

Right about this time last year, I finally decided I wanted to officially become an esthetician and was in the process of figuring out where I wanted to go to beauty school.  I didn’t really know what questions were important to ask – all I knew was that I had a dream and getting my esthetics license would get me on my way.  Without asking the right questions, I ended up paying way too much (almost 20 grand including interest) to a private school and not getting the quality of education I expected to receive at that rate.  I’ve outlined some questions to ask that may point you in the right direction as you pursue the fabulous world of esthetics.

1. Is the esthetics school accredited?  This is important for obvious reasons, right?  But just in case – accredited esthetics schools are recognized throughout the various associations and schools in the field.
2. Does the esthetics school provide the number of hours needed for taking your state esthetician license?  For California, you need to complete 600 hours of esthetics school as well as a minimum number of hands-on practice.
3. Is their curriculum balanced with practical and theory hours?  Practical hours are hours spent practicing esthetics – waxing, makeup, facials, etc.  Theory hours are dedicated to learning about your craft through classroom-style strategies – books, magazines, lectures, etc.
4. Do they have a spa and how many hours are you expected to work in the spa?  The busier the spa is, the more opportunity you will have to complete your required hands-on practice as well as give you a feel for working with real-world clients (or at least clients who want a deal and are willing to risk their money on those in-training).
5. Are you able to talk with students who have graduated or who are in the process of training?  This may or may not help.  If you are in front of the admissions rep and you do this, the current student may feel obligated or pressured to help give the school a good name.  My recommendation is to find someone who graduated from the school on your own and interview them for the most honest review.
6. Does the school have job placement assistance?  The school I went to did, but I found that I had to initiate contact with the admissions rep to get that information.  There wasn’t a posting board to check for opportunities.   Politics came into play at times, so make sure to be kind to everyone you meet and interact with.
7. Do they offer continued education once you have graduated?  Once I graduated, I still felt like I needed to learn more things – like eyelash extensions, makeup techniques, airbrush tanning, etc.  My school didn’t (doesn’t) offer these specialized classes, (and I don’t believe most schools will) so I ended up having to dish out more money to invest in more education after-the-fact.
8. Is it convenient to your home and have times available which will work in your schedule?  This is a plus, but some girls in my class travelled 25 – 50 miles to get to school.  I only lived 10 minutes away which made it really convenient.  Since graduation is based on time, punctuality was very important, so don’t miss class and don’t be late.
9. Is the school recognized as a quality establishment by your potential employers?  This was something that the admissions rep pointed out to me about their school.   However important this is, it’s also important to keep in mind that paying an additional $5,000 isn’t worth it.  Choose the school based on reputation and your total investment.
10. Does the school offer an overview of medical procedures such as lasers and injectibles so you can stay current?  In the ever-changing esthetics world that we’re in today, this is more relevant than ever.  The school I went to promised to teach us body treatments, but the entire time I was there, the body capsule was “broken” and never repaired.  I was there for 6 months. 

If you are considering going to Federico’s Career Colleges in Fresno, CA and would like to know more about my experience there, I encourage you to leave a comment or message.  I would be more than happy to help you on your way and share with you my experience as a student there.   If you’re just curious about the whole process and you’re in California, just ask and I’ll tell as much as I know.  Hope this helps!

I love this look from The Notorious Bettie Page.  If you love red lips and 50’s-inspired makeup, here’s how to get this fabulous look.  This is a beauty breakdown borrowed from makeup411.com – where you will find many more looks to bring to life.  I substituted some products for what I believe are better options, but use this as a guide and not necessarily so much as a rule.  Be creative!

Skin Prep:
Use M.A.C. Lightful Active Softening Lotion to hydrate your skin and even-out your tone.  Then moisturize with Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer for a non-greasy, super-hydrating, quick-drying finish, all the while mimicing your skin’s natural oils.

Foundation:
Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover Foundation.  Of course, select the color closest to your skin tone, but keep in mind that these shades are either too pink, too orange, too rose or too peach:  #135, #145, #150, #160, #170, & #165.  And carefully consider #125 & #130. 

Concealer:
Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage.   This is a 2-shade system that completely camouflages dark circles, minor imperfections, and discolorations – great for custom coloring too.

Powder:
M.A.C. Blot Powder in Medium Dark.  Great with shine control and absorbance of excess oils.  Unnoticeable color, but achieves fabulous results.

Blush:
Mix MAC’s Pinch’a'cheek with Armani’s Sheer Blush #2.  Results:  soft, light, and radiant.

Eyeshadow:
Stila Eyeshadow Pan in Shell all over lid and Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow in Taupe in crease to lift lid.  Stila’s eyeshadow has shine, but also has a gorgeous texture that’s wonderful for blending.  Bobbi Brown’s eyeshadow is great for blending and is beautifully matte.

Eye Liner:
Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner  in Black.  Apply this with a brush.  Once applied, it’s long-wearing and smudge-proof.

Brows:
Rimmel’s Professional Eyebrow Pencil in Hazel.  This pencil provides a long-lasting finish and a soft and even application for perfect brows.

Lashes:
Kevyn Aucoin’s Volumizing Mascara.  Doesn’t clump and holds your curl all day long.

Lips: 
Shiseido’s Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Dragon with matching lipliner RD 305 Siren.  Dramatic, sexy, and intense.

Ahh…the big question of should you or should you not.  Just so you know beforehand, I am  in the service industry, so this article may seem biased; however – I have also been (still am) on the other end as a patron, a client – so here is my take on tipping.

Keep in mind that tipping your esthetician is a way of expressing satisfaction.  By no means are you required to follow any set of rules or requirements.  However, when services performed aren’t tipped for, it makes me wonder 1 main thing – did I do something wrong? 

Although tipping isn’t required, most estheticians still do expect it.  A satisfactory tipping percentage in this industry is 15%-18%, 20+% being reserved for services that you feel are above and beyond.  Not only does tipping goes hand-in-hand with the service industry, but receiving tips is also healthy for the esteem of the practitioner. 

As a patron, on the rare occasion I decide not to tip, it will be for reasons such as
     – the services were not thoroughly performed with the utmost care in mind
     – my displeasure far outweighed my level of satisfaction for any service-related reason
     - I did not get what I went in there for

Some practitioners in the field may rant that they work for the tip and they deserve it, but truly, you, the recipient, are the only one to decide that.   If you decide not to leave a tip, it would be fair to let the front desk or better yet, your practitioner, know why.  I can tell you from experience that it helps everyone have a better experience.  Most of the time, the practitioner didn’t even realize that you were dissatisfied or that something didn’t suit you quite right. 

One last point I wanted to make is that beyond all the etiquette of tipping and such, the best way to compliment your esthetician (or beautician) is simply to send her business.  Recommending her services to someone else is infinitely better than leaving her a tip.  I know I’d take that over tip any day.

Myth #21:  Skin damage and signs of aging can be cleared up quickly.
Truth: If a product sounds too good to be true, you can bet its claims are false.  The sun damage didn’t happen overnight, and it certainly cannot be magically repaired.  To see measurable results, expect to go through at least three skin cycles (anywhere between 21-40 days, depending on age).  My mom has been asking me for a skin lightening cream and I just ordered one by Alpha Hydrox based on Paula Begoun’s recommendation. 

Myth #22: All alcohol in skin products is bad.
Truth: Some compounds that contain alcohol can act as emollients, which can decrease the skin’s water loss.  Cetyl, benzyl and oleyl alcohol are examples of good alcohols. 

Myth #23:  Sun exposure will improve acne.
Truth:  Sun exposure can hide the appearance of acne for awhile, but will eventually lead to skin damge, pigmentation, and drying that will signal the skin to produce more oil.

Myth #24:  Alcohol abuuse can cause your nose to become red and bulbous.
Truth:  The intake of alcohol can temporarity dilate blood vessels and make skin appear flushed, but in most cases, a large, inflamed, red and bulbous nose is a result of rosacea.

Myth #25:  Skin repair happens at night.
Truth:  A good nights sleep is certainly helpful to skin health; however, skin repair is ongoing.  Inadequate sleep can cause stress, skin puffiness, and can slow the natural development of collagen. 

Myth #26:  Skin care products can last three or more years.
Truth:  Most skin care products lose a great deal of their potenc within 12 months.  it’s best to use the entire contents within one year because preservative don’t last forever and ingredients can get contaminated with bacteria or simply evaporate. 

Myth #27:  Strong scrubs, soaps, and abrasives are good for your skin.
Truth:  Be gentle on your face!  Too much scrubbing or too many abrasive products can remove protective oils, create tiny micro tears and contribute to aging, irritated skin.  Less is more.

Myth #28:  Vitamin A thins the skin.
Truth:  Skin can become thin due to the lack of Vitamin A.  This is because of its unique ability to help create new, healthy and normal skin cells.  Vitamin A is arguably the most important skin care ingredient, bar none.  It’s one of the few – if not the only – ingredient that’s backed by more than 50 years of objective, scientific research supporting its efficacy.

Myth #29:  The only form of Vitamin C that works is L-ascorbic acid.
Truth:  L-ascorbic acid only remains in its most potent state for a limited time.  A new era in Vitamin C formulations, one of the best antioxidants for your skin, has arrived.  There are several forms that have been developed that aren’t water-based, which means they can better penetrate the skin and remain more potent for longer periods of time.

Myth #30:  There is one antioxidant ingredient that’s the best.
Truth:  Every year, there’s a hot, newly discovered antioxidant that’s touted as the best - but this isn’t true.  A cocktail of antioxidants provides better results than just one.  Seek products containing a plethora of antioxidants.

01. Eyeliner or Mascara? 
Ooh, both!  I like to wear Outlast Smoothwear All-Day Eyeliner by CG for it’s ease of application and staying power & Full Definition Voluminous Mascara by L’Oreal Paris for it’s truly dramatic effects.  But if I had to choose one and only one, I’d choose the mascara over the eyeliner. 

02. Coach or Dooney & Bourke?
…For me, neither brand seems to have enough edge, but between the two…Coach.  Their madison collection comes closest to what I like best.

03. Abercrombie & Fitch or The Gap?
Abercrombie’s wa….y sexier.  But I love Gap’s simplicity! … Although – Abercrombie does have better jeans.  Why don’t they show a rear view – that’s what makes the jeans!  Abercrombie for this round.

04. Pumps or flats?
Definitely pumps.  No contest.  Here’s why.

05. Skirts or pants?
Pants.  Especially hot, butt-lifting jeans from MiH.   Expensive, but worth it!

06. Socks or leggings?
Leggings.  Especially in fall, winter, and early spring!  Paired with a mini and any type of boots, it adds instant personality.  My favorite brand?  Exhiliration or for a more serious investment, Wolford. 

07. Blazers or jackets?
Hard one.  Blazers.  They’re more versatile and easier to layer with.  Besides, I’m in California where 75% of the time, there is no need for a jacket.

08. Tennishoes or sneakers?
Sneakers.  These kind, in particular.

09. Straight or curly hair?
Yeah right – I’m definitely not picking between these two.  Both are just too awesome.  But:  I do wear my hair straight 99.9% of the time.  Now this is a fabulous hair straightener.

10. Hoop or dangling earrings?
Dangling earrings.  They’re so sassy!

11. Side-swept bangs or even-lengthed?
Both –  as long as the even-lengthed bangs are textured and only appear to be even in length.  Most days, I wear my bangs side-swept.

12. Heidi Klum or Tyra Banks?
Totally Heidi.  She seems to be more tame yet totally sensational at the same time.  Plus, she’s a career woman who knows how to balance love & work!

13. White or black?
Black.  Although I do want to try a white bikini this summer.

14. Victoria’s Secret or Frederick’s of Hollywood?
Victoria’s Secret…I think it’s all the glamorous advertising they do – I’m such a sucker for that kind of thing - plus, they’ve got great makeup & perfume.

15. Smoothies or latte?
Smoothies.  Especially Jamba Juice Smoothies!

16. Diet or regular sodas?
Diet Pepsi

17. Water or daiquiries?
Water.  Especially in this hot town.  Nothing’s more refreshing.  Nothing.

18. Pearls or diamonds?
Diamonds.  & it’s not about how many carats, it’s about how close to flawless it is.

19. Vintage or boho?
Boho.  Boho is totally chic and I hope it stays in style forever!

20. Mary Kate or Ashley Olsen?
Ashley.  Not only beautiful, but well put-together, daring, assertive, smart and creative.

21. Michelle Obama or Hilary Clinton?
Michelle Obama – she’s a good first lady and inspires me to be a healthy American.

22. Ipod or cell phone?
Cell phone.  Can’t do without the celly.

23. Friends or family?
Fam.  All the way. 

24. Lip gloss or lip stick?
Gloss!

25. Manicure or pedicures?
Pedicure!  Being an esthetician, I can do without the mani’s, but when it comes to pedi’s, now I can’t just give that up.

26. M.A.C or Benefit?
Benefit.  They seem to carry more unique products.  But MAC has an overwhelmingly wide range of color.

27. Tank tops or beaters?
Tanks!

28. Tiffany or Chanel?
Actually, David Yurman.  His stuff makes such a statement.  A perfect balance between masculinity and femininity.

29. Love or peace?
Love love love.

30. Aviators or Jackie O’s?
Aviators.  They’re so casual cool.  Jackie O shades are timeless, too.

X what you have:
[X ] an ipod/mp3.
[ ] a Tiffany bracelet or necklace.
[ ] a Louis Vuitton purse.
[X ] a computer.
[X ] a cd player.
[X ] a stereo.
[X ] a spice girl cd (MP3).
[X ] a cosmo girl magazine. or regular Cosmo
[X] a teddy bear.
[X ] a build a bear.
[ ] an American Eagle purse.
[ ] Hollister jeans.
[X ] a Hot Topic shirt (actually, I have a pair of HT shoes).
[X ] a cell phone.
[ ] an Aeropostale shirt.
[ ] a big screen TV.
[ ] the mean girls dvd.
[X ] a TV in my room (unfortunately!  It’s not in an armoire, either).
[X ] a big bed.
[X ] a brother or sister (I have both).
[X] a diamond ring.
[ ] a pearl necklace.
[X ] a prom dress.
[X ] a book (many books).
[X ] a myspace
[ ] Curious the perfume by Britney.
[ ] g-unit sneakers.
[X ] a black shirt.
[ ] a clique

I’ve been on-call at the spa around the corner now for a little over 3 months now and thought I’d give you all a brief review.  I remember when I was scouting out the ‘net, trying to figure out what to do, it was hard to make a decision between going independent, hourly or commission, so I hope  you’ll find this article useful somehow.

After graduating late November ‘08, I took about 3 months off before actively submitting my resume anywhere.  When I finally did get out there, I only applied to 2 spas, one commission-only, the other – hourly.  Suffice it to say, I went on board with the commission-only position and have been there since March. 

The first month was exciting, going to training out of town, learning about a new supposedly-sophisticated product, and once again, giving facials!  Back in March, I averaged about a client a week – that’s one 60 minute facial per week.  The deal was (and is) the spa takes 60% and I earn 40% on their fixed prices plus 10% of any retail product sales.  I was a bit disappointed, as I’d read that it was supposed to be the other way around, but I figured, why not?  I’m just starting out with no clientele.

April, last month, I served 12 facial clients, 5 hair removal clients, and 1 retail sales client.  Total dollars earned: about $500 including tips.  The agreement from the beginning was that she’d provide everything – back bar, wax supplies, towels, body wraps, bed sheets, etc.  The reality:  this month, I had to run out to Bed Bath & Beyond to purchase a body wrap at the last minute $16, I had to bring in flat sheets from my personal esthetics stash to use at the spa $7, bring in my own bowls $15, product table and supplies (cotton rounds, cotton balls, extractors, tweezers, etc.) $50.    That’s 88 bucks right there taken from my earnings.  And this month, I’ve managed to rack up 2 days of going in to work (1 60 minute Euro, 3 mini facials – mini facials are awesome!!). 

Based on my experience so far, outlined are some benefits and setbacks.

On-call Commission Pros
– I don’t have to be at the spa all day
– I can set my own availability
– The spa provides
          — clients and appointments for me
          — my own room to maintain and work out of with no overhead for me
          — all facial and wax products and equipment

On-call Commission Cons
– Last minute calls to go in immediately.
          — Last minute calls are difficult to accommodate because I may either be in the middle of something or setting up will take a good 20 minutes.

– No-shows
          — Luckily, I only live a mile away from the spa, but no-shows are a complete waste of time.  You have to consider the time it takes to set up for them, the time you wait for them not to show up, and then the time it will take to tear down and put everything back away.  Really sucks.

– Accomodating clients who show up earlier than appointed time
          — Twice now, I’ve had clients show up as early as an hour prior to their appointment and I have not been ready to go, as I usually set aside only 20 minutes prior to their scheduled time to go set up for them.  This creates chaos for me because I’m either rushed into setting up for them or the appointment is given to another esthetician.

– It’s harder to plan out your day. 
          — It’s true, you can always turn down the request to go in, but I don’t always feels good about doing this.  As a new esthetician, I am looking for any opportunity to build a clientele, and as an independent contractor with the spa, I want to make sure my reputation is reliable.

My reflections?  I would like to be commission-only if the spa were busier.  However, the couple of times we’ve been busy, it’s been hard to find enough sheets and supplies to ensure a pleasant experience for everyone.  My suggestion is if you are planning to go commission-only,  do so with a spa that’s well-established – or at least established.  There’s no frustration greater than not having the tools necessary to make your appointment go smoothly – especially when it’s promised.  

Additionally, make sure that the staff is professional and friendly (so important).  I do have to say that’s something my spa does offer and it helps make all the setbacks that much more bearable.

Myth #11:  Mineral Oil is comodogenic.
Truth:  Just to clarity, comodogenic means having the tendency to produce or aggravate acne.  Today’s cosmetic mineral oil has met with stringent safety standards and are not industrial-strength.  Since water-based products cannot melt or remove sebum plugs, an oil-based substance is needed (oil attracts oil) – thus, mineral oil.

Myth #13: Packaging is not important.
Truth: Packaging is vitally important! This is not just for asthetic reasons, but to protect the efficacy of the ingredients. Watch out for products in wide-mouth jars, trasnparent containers, and pumps that are not all airless. These types of packaging styles will drastically lower the integrity of the ingredients.

Myth #13:  Preservatives in skin care products are bad.
Truth: Preservatives actually help prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi and other organisms that can not only deteriorate a product’s effectiveness and spoil the product itself, but also allow harmful bacteria to get on or in the skin.  Regarding parabens:  there still isn’t enough definitive research that topical appplication will lead to harm, but further study is needed. 

Myth #14:  Chocolate and greasy foods cause acne.
Truth:  Some individuals may have allergic reactions to foods that can cause inflammation, but the root of problematic skin includes hormonal factors, bacteria, and skin cells.  Stress, however, does have the power to exacerbate flareups, so slow down, take a deep breath…and relax. 

Myth #15:  Drying problematic or oily skin clears up acne.
Truth:  The opposite is true.  When skin becomes overly dry, your skin will send signals to produce more oil.  So use dry products sparingly, and instead, look to lightly moisturize dry, oily skin.  The goal here:  to keep your skin balanced.

Myth #16: Blackheads are caused by improperly cleansed skin.
Truth: Blackheads are caused by clogged pores – and excessive scrubbing can irritate and further inflame the skin. Blackheads often contain dirt, oil, and dry and dead skin cells that need to be removed. Products that help dissolve sebum are the most effective.

Myth #17:  Get a base tan to prevent burning before going on vacation.
Truth:  Any tan is a sacr, and there is no such thing as a healthy, safe tan.  Want that base tan anyway?  Self-tanners are the safest way to go.  Try Fake Bake at Ulta.  It applies dark and rinses off beautifully, leaving you with a gorgeous tan that lasts longer than most drugstore brands.

Myth #18:  All sun damage to skin occurs before 18 years of age.
Truth:  Wouldn’t that be awesome – to never have to apply sunscreen again! (after 18).  The truth is, sun damage continues to occur through life.  And actually, some studies are suggesting that less than 50% of sun damage happens before a person turns 18.  So if you’re not a sunscreen junkie yet – hop on the train – it’s never too late to start protecting your skin.

Myth #19:  Indoor tanning beds are safe.
Truth:  The argument that tanning beds and booths do not cause the same skin mutations that may cause cancerous lesions is false.  UVA rays found in indoor tanning actually lead to deeper, more harmful skin damage.  You do not have to have a sunburn to create damage to skin cells.  And, as testimony, I have a friend who’s now 32, who’s been tanning since age 15, whose facial skin is quite wrinkly already, and whose overall skin is just leathery.  The 30’s are the new 20’s, right?  So give up that tanning membership and opt for that self-tanner instead.

Myth #20:  Antioxidants reverse wrinkles.
Truth:  Ah, the media, how they love the vulnerable consumer.  Antioxidants are essential in fighting  free radical formation and are important in helping prevent skin damage, but they cannot make wrinkles go away.  Let’s be real here, the only way to get rid of wrinkles nowadays is Botox (and that’s only temporary).  So be good to yourself and, while you still can, 1 tsp. of sunscreen every day, 2-4 times a day.

Myth #1:  Facial exercies tone facial muscles and make a person appear younger.
Truth:  Ever heard of the “facial exercise ball”?  The one that you lock between your chin and neck?  Yep, t’s bunk.  The face is the only part of the body where muscles are attached directly to the skin; there are no facial ligaments or tissue.  As a matter of fact, constant facial exercise and tugging will actually contribute to to even more lines.  Wrinkles form  most often along expression lines caused by facial movements.  Think crow’s feet or frown lines. 

Myth #2:  Vitamin E minimizes scarring.
Truth:  Now this one seems to have been circulating for decades.  But the truth is, there isn’t any evidence that Vitamin E will do anything to help with scarring.  Some research even indicates that it may have a negative effect on scarring.  That said, Vitamin E is a great antioxidant and does a great job building the skin.

Myth #3:  Cucumbers help reduce puffiness around the eyes.
Truth:  Actually, this isn’t so much of a myth…it’s just that instead of reducing puffiness, what the cucumber will do is hydrate the skin temporarily because the main ingredient in cucumbers is 90% water.  No cucumbers on hand?  No problem – a cold compress will do the trick just as well.

Myth #4:  Skin pores open and close.
Truth:  This is just not possible.  They can certainly fill with dirt and clog up, yeah, but they don’t “open and close” and they certainly don’t change size.  The oilier the skin, the larger the pores.  This is because pores are opening in the skin that allow oils (aka sebum) to reach the surface.

Myth #5:  The higher the SPF rating, the better.
Truth: SPF ratings only refer to protection from UVB rays.  A person needs sun protection that has chemical and physical blockers, plus antioxidants.  Don’t fall victim to a false sense of security by purchasing that SPF 85.  When an SPF is that high, it introduces more potentially harmful chemicals to the body.  Besides, you really don’t need to go searching for a sunscreen with an SPF that high because one with an SPF 50 is only marginally more protective than an SPF of 15;  SPF 30 has only 2% more protection that an SPF 15, and a 40 has only 1% more than a 30.  Sunscereens need to be reapplied every 90-120 minutes.  Read more here on sunscreen.

Myth #6:  Layering several products with SPF ratings increases protection.
Truth:  You are only protected to the extent of the higher rating of one product.  So combining different products with different SPF ratings will not “add up” to a new SPF value.  For the best protection, allow the sunscreen to absorb into your skin for about 30 minutes before sun exposure.

Myth #7:  Topical creams containing collagen can replace collagen.
Truth:  Ahh, if only that were so.  We could all say goodbye to injections (and that itself can have shockingly unnatural blistery results)!  There is a lack of impartial, empirical evidence that the topical application of collagen or elastin can penetrate the dermis.  They can provide moiturization to the epidermis.  If you really desire inflations, there’s only one way:  the needle.

Myth #8:  Natural and organic products are always better.
Truth:  See, I believe in going green and preserving our planet, but buyer beware! when it comes to buying organic over traditional products.  Many natural and organic products are not as they claim.  Synthetic compounds can actually be identical to those found in nature and be more effective.  Natural vs. lab-processed should not lead to a yes or no decision about whether a product is superior or inferior.  Not all chemicals are bad, and not all natural or organic ingredients are good.

Myth #9:  Using larger quantities of a product will yield better results.
Truth:  Less is more (except in the case of sunscreen, in which you will need at least a teaspoonful for your face).  Normally, a pea-sezed amount of facial product will do the trick.  But since my face is prone to dryness, I go pretty easy on the moisturizer.  Excessive amounts can wasteyour hard-earned money and may also cause skin problems if not completely cleansed.

Myth #10:  Mineral oil is bad for your skin.
Truth:  Today’s cosmeceutical mineral oil is a far cry from the industrial type that was previously used on skin.  It’s rather effective in removing excess oil from the skin since oil attracts oil.  The modern mineral oil formatied for use in skin care has a different molecular weight and will not harm skin or clog pores.

Permanent makeup aka cosmetic tattooing is a procedure used to apply natural pigment to your face by applying micro insertions into the dermal layer of the skin.  This technique can be and is used for a variety of permanent cosmetic facial enhancements such as eyebrows, eyeliner and lip liner/color.  It is applied artistically and is medically proven to be completely safe.  Done properly, it has the ability to enhance your face and save time from applying certain makeup in the morning.  If you’re on the fence about making the commitment and taking the leap, here are some pros and cons.

Pros
– Freedom and convenience from daily makeup applications
– A solution for allergies from traditional makeup
– If you suffer from tremors or have a hard time applying makeup, permanent makeup will leave lasting lines of perfection without any effort on your part
– Great for those with oily skin (and athletic types) who tend to shed makeup easily 
– For middle-aged women, it will improve the appearance of lips and brows
– For older ladies, it helps restore youthful color that’s faded with age

Cons
– Less flexibility in trying new looks
– Permanent makeup can migrate, cause allergies, and end up looking ridiculous
– It will fade over time, requiring touchups in the range of one to seven years, fading faster in sunlight
– As your body ages, your skin changes, and so may your skin tone, so your once-appealing permanent makeup may not look so hot ten years down the road.

Considering permanent makeup?  Do Your Homework.

Improve your chances of success by checking out a makeup technician and the permanent makeup business.
– Check out the facility and see whether it appears to be sanitary.  Are there separate areas from hair styling, manicure, pedicure, esthetic produres?
– Don’t be afraid to request to see their business health permit.  Inspections by county health officials are usually required in most cities.
– Inqure about the technician’s training, and find out how many hours of training he/she’s undergone.  Ask to see their official certificate.
– Review the technician’s portfolio of before-and-after photos
– Find out whether the technician belongs to any professional associations such as the American Academy of Micropigmentation or the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals.  Each group sets ethical standards and provides educational opportunities for its members.
– All permanent cosmetic technicians are required to register with the health department – ask to see their registration. 
– Consider price last.  A cheap price may end up looking cheap and costing you more in the future.
– Get a referral from your dermatologist or a friend who’s gotten a great job done.

Moving forward?  Here’s what to expect.

– Topical anesthetics are used to minimize discomfort; however, it will still be painful. 
– You will still be fully aware during the procedure and will be able to decide the placement of the pigment to acheive the look you’re after.
– The initial color will be darker that the intended final color.
– There may be slight swelling or redness in the skin, but not usually.  You may resume normal activities immediately after the procedure.
– Complete healing takes 14-20 days while the pigmentation matures and reaches it’s final color.